Series 2: Episode 4

A hundred years ago they were known as Coorong Cockles. Today the Pipis harvested from a hundred kilometre long ocean beach near Goolwa in South Australia are enjoyed by connoisseurs of fine seafood all around Australia and in parts of Europe and South East Asia. Before sunrise one morning we join a harvesting crew from the Goolwa Pipi Company for their rugged daily trip to work – by barge across the mouth of the Murray River and by 4WD across the sand dunes to the surf which is their “office”. Along with us for the bumpy ride is Imogen Czulowski, head chef at Adelaide’s award-winning Africola Restaurant. After grappling with a Pipi rake in the surf – yes, these beaut little bivalves are all hand harvested – Mo as she’s known to her friends cooks some up with a tangy Caponata for a working lunch on the beach. Then in her busy Africola kitchen, she serves some more in a spicy broth with Katsup Manis.

IMOGEN CZULOWSKI

Head Chef, Africola

Described by Executive Chef and Co-owner of Africola, Duncan Welgemoed as “very ambitious, very driven and very methodical but with an exceptional lightness of touch”, Czulowski knew she wanted to be a chef the moment she realised her education wouldn’t qualify her to be a brain surgeon. “So I did the next best thing,” she says, only half joking.

From an apprenticeship in her native McLaren Vale, she learned a humble approach to food. “From there,” she continues, “I did what every young, hungry chef does: I travelled, and in that travel I staged at [former world number one restaurant] Noma [in Copenhagen]. It was an ethos I was familiar with, but a style that gave me another perspective to the way we approach produce.”

London came next. “It was fast, it was fun and it was gritty. I learned how to move quickly and drink tequila to the wee hours. Then I worked at Dinner by Heston, where I gained a completely new set of skills.”
Her working life is guided by some firm mottos. “Always take orders with a smile. There is a reason for tradition. Leave your tears at the door, no one has time to mop that up. Never compromise – either your food, yourself or your values.”

And challenges? “The biggest is the constant struggle to stay on top of your game. There is always someone younger, faster, better, stronger, but this breeds innovation and drive into the industry and chefs feed off this. In fact, I think Daft Punk wrote a song about it!”

This Episodes Featured Recipes